Introduction

Spain is the second largest European pork producer and the fourth largest in the world behind China, United States and Germany, with a national herd of 23.5 million.
The quality and abundance of raw materials, salt and meat combined with a favorable climate has helped develop a longstanding culture of salting and curing meats and fish in Spain. Although it is difficult to pinpoint the origins of these skills, there is evidence that Spain’s reputation was not restricted to the Iberian Peninsula, according to various accounts from Roman times in which ham from “Hispania” is mentioned and praised.
Over the years this recognition and reputation has established Spain as the supreme ham producing country we know today.

Cured ham

Cured ham in Spain is made by putting the pork legs through a brief salting process followed by a long drying and maturing period which is never less than seven months and can last for several years. With few exceptions Spanish ham is not smoked, in contrast to northern and central European countries.
Cured ham is undoubtedly one of the most emblematic products of Spanish cuisine.

Classification

The traditional region for curing hams is the sierra, from which all hams derive the generic name of “Serrano”. Nevertheless, it is important to point out that not all hams produced in Spain are the same.
The first and most basic classification to establish is the existence of two clearly distinct types of cured ham that are differentiated by the breed of swine: ham from Iberian pigs and ham from white pigs.
Following on from this initial purely genetic classification, which confers some highly discernible characteristics, there are many other factors, such as rearing method, food, curing and maturing methods and time periods, production region etc. Even where highly similar approaches are taken to the preparation of the hams, these factors can have great bearing on the final product and make Serrano or Iberian cured ham a product with nearly unlimited variations in terms of bouquet, taste and texture.
Below are some of the principal characteristics of both types:

Iberian ham:

– From the Iberian pig, an ancient autochthonous breed of the Iberian Peninsula and the last surviving pastoral pig breed in Europe.
– Its most notable characteristics are its recognizable shape, its long and thin legs and its beveled snout as well as the generally darker color of its skin and hooves from which there derives the popular term “pata negra” traditionally used to describe hams from Iberian pigs.
This name can lead to confusion since there are various varieties of Iberian pig that can have other types of coloring (dark chestnut, blond and the spotted pig from Jabugo) as well as common pig breeds with dark skin and hooves.(*)
– They live exclusively in the southwest of the Iberian Peninsula. In Spain they are reared in the provinces of Cáceres and Badajoz (Extremadura), Huelva (Andalusia) and Salamanca (Castilla y León).
– The pigs generally live free range and feed on grasses, bulbs, weeds and seeds although principally on acorns with cereal feed and/or a mixture of both.

– Hams are classified and named based on their foodstuff:

o Acorn fed Iberian ham also called “montanera” (mountain ham)
o Mixed fed Iberian ham also called “recebo” ham
o Fodder fed Iberian ham also called “pienso” ham

– Natural rearing using traditional artisan methods. The curing period varies between 14 and 36 months.
– The industry continues to be family and artisan based and is located in areas where the climate is ideal for curing hams naturally.
– Production is limited and the price is high.
– Considered by gastronomic experts around the world to be the best cured ham and one of the world’s greatest delicacies.

(*) The current quality standard for Iberian hams, shoulders and loins made in Spain are contained in Royal Decrees RD 1083/2001, October 5, 2001 and RD144/2003, February 8, 2003 in order to protect the Iberian pig breed and its ecosystem, to provide truthful information to consumers, to give the market transparency and regulate the Ibérico products sector and establish a legal framework that allows for stable development of the sector.
A recent amendment to Royal Decree 1082/01 on the quality standard under the section on labeling, establishes that the use of the term “pata negra”, among others, is forbidden for products that do not comply with the current standard. This ban will come in to force on April 15, 2006 for Ibérico shoulder and on April 15, 2007 for Ibérico ham.

Serrano ham:

– Derived from the central European white pig breed and improved by crossing it with the Duroc, Pietrain, Landrace or Large White breeds which have a higher productivity.
– They live and are bred throughout Spain.
– They are produced intensively in captivity with the pigs being stall-fed and their movement highly restricted to prevent rubbing. They are fed a mainly cereal based fodder and are slaughtered earlier than Iberian pigs.
– Curing and maturing periods range from seven to thirteen months and is carried out and controlled in modern drying plants equipped with the latest technology to reproduce natural environmental and climatic curing conditions, which allow constantly controlled quality and hygienic conditions to be maintained at all times.
– Serrano ham is produced throughout Spain.

– The “Jamón Serrano” name is protected as a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) under European Union regulation 2419/1999.(*)
(*) In 1999 “Jamón Serrano” was listed in the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed Register by the European Union via regulation 2419/1999 in accordance with regulation CEE 2082/1992.
Serrano ham has become the first product from the Spanish food industry and the European Union to be registered as a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed. Only producers that comply with the established specifications and are certified by an external and independent control body can use the “Jamón Serrano” registered name and the EC symbol.

Production

Spain is the leading global producer of cured hams and shoulders, producing more than 41.5 million units in 2003, of which 86.5% were hams and 13.5% shoulders. Spain is also the leading consumer with an annual per capita consumption of 5 kg.
In the last five years total unit production has increased by 29.13%.

In terms of product type, 88.7% of total production is accounted for by sales of hams and shoulders from white pigs, compared to 11.3% of sales from Iberian pigs.

In relation to marketing and sales, the domestic market shows a clear increasing trend in the demand for higher quality and priced Serrano and Iberian hams.

Quality control

Due to the variety of the product and frequent difficulty in its identification, it is appropriate to highlight those hams that have achieved the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) or Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) guarantees and recognition from the European Union. These are EU quality definitions that apply to specific agricultural and food products and are endorsed by strict production and control regulations. At a national level the regulatory boards are the organizations that monitor and control the standards specified by the regulations.

The Protected Designations of Origin, Protected Geographical Indications or Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (*) for cured ham in Spain are:

From Ibérico pork
- Guijuelo-Salamanca PDO (Castilla y León)
- Dehesa de Extremadura PDO - Cáceres and Badajoz (Extremadura)
- Jamón de Huelva PDO – Huelva (Andalusia)
From white pork
- Jamón de Teruel PDO - Teruel ( Aragon)
- Jamón de Trevélez PGI - Granada (Andalusia)

In 2002 total ham and shoulder sales protected by designations of origin exceeded 49.39 million euros.
There are other public and/or private organizations, independent of EU protection and regulation, whose objective is also to regulate and monitor product authenticity in the national and international market and its “certification and/or brand stamping” which help to guarantee the raw materials, traceability, production and the final quality of the product.
Following the opening up of various export markets for Spanish cured ham, the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) considered the need for a private, independent and non-profit making organization whose clearly defined objectives would be to promote international awareness of Spanish ham and to guarantee the quality of hams that are sold outside of Spain.
This project which was supported by the sector’s associations was carried out by the Serrano Ham Consortium (Consorcio de Jamón Serrano) and Real Ibérico, the Consortium for the Promotion of Spanish Ibérico Cured Ham.
- Serrano Ham Consortium (Consorcio del Jamón Serrano) is an independent non-profit association that since 1990 has united the principal exporting producers of Serrano ham. Its principal objective is to promote medium and high-quality Serrano ham abroad, as well as guaranteeing that products protected by the Consorcio stamp comply with its established quality standards through the use of strict controls. Only a limited production of hams from white pigs receive the exclusive “Consorcio del Jamón Serrano” stamp.
- Real Ibérico, Consortium for the Promotion of Spanish Ibérico Cured Ham. Independent non-profit association that has united the top companies from all the traditional Iberian ham-producing regions since 1996. Its key function is to maximize international awareness of Iberian ham as one of the best gourmet products on the market and to guarantee the quality of Iberian hams that are sold outside of Spain by use of the “Real Ibérico” brand stamp.
- Fundación Jamón Serrano is a private non-profit institution whose function is to improve and promote awareness of Serrano ham and its image and consumption in the domestic market. It requires its associates to rigorously comply with the production and preparation methods established by the specifications of the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed of Serrano ham.
The sector
The corporate structure of the Spanish cured ham sector has little concentration and is largely made up of small and medium sized family companies. The latest surveys show approximately 1,600 ham producers of which approximately 80% do not have more than 15 employees. The large groups in the sector usually control the whole production chain.
Foreign trade
The European Union accounts for the largest volume of cured ham sales. Spain is the second ranked exporter in Europe after Italy.
The Spanish trade balance for cured ham runs a clear surplus.
During recent years Spanish exports have continued to grow slowly although volumes are barely representative.

European Union countries are the principal export destinations for Spanish cured ham exports. France, Germany and Portugal jointly account for 75.8% of volume and 70.6% of total export value.
Although cured ham is exported to more than 70 markets, the lack of bilateral trade agreements that allow exports to be made on a continuous basis to a large number of non-EU countries continues to be one of the principal expansion limitations that the Spanish cured ham sector has to overcome.

Exporters of cured ham

The websites of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano and Real Ibérico (Consortium for the Promotion of Spanish Ibérico Cured Ham) contain the list of exporting producers of Serrano and Iberian ham affiliated with their respective consortiums.
Regulatory Boards for the Protected Designation of Origins
Regulatory Board for the Dehesa de Extremadura PDO
C/ Canovas del Castillo, 16, 2º ( Lonja Agropecuaria Extremadura )
06800 MÉRIDA (Badajoz) Spain
Tel.:+ 34 924 33 02 03
Fax: + 34 924 33 09 59
E-mail: info@dehesa-extremadura.com
Web: www.dehesa-extremadura.com (in Spanish and English)
Regulatory Board for the Guijuelo PDO
C/ Filiberto Villalobos, 4
37770 GUIJUELO (Salamanca) Spain
Tel.: + 34 923 58 15 14
Fax: + 34 923 58 00 97
E-mail: consejo@jamonguijuelo.e.telefonica.net
Web: http://www.jamonguijuelo.org/ (in Spanish and English)
Regulatory Board for the Jamón de Huelva PDO
Plaza de Doña Elvira s/n
21200 ARACENA (Huelva) Spain
Tel.: + 34 959 12 79 88
Fax: + 34 949 12 68 69
E-mail: info@jamondehuelva.com
Web: www.jamondehuelva.com (in Spanish and English)
Regulatory Board for the Jamón de Teruel PDO
Avda. Segundo, 52, 3º
44992 TERUEL - Spain
Tel.: + 34 978 61 89 40
Fax: + 34 978 61 89 41
E-mail: consejo@jamondeteruel.com
Web: www.jamondeteruel.com
Regulatory Board for the Jamón de Trevélez PDO
Plaza Francisco Abellán, s/n
18417 TREVÉLEZ (Granada) Spain
Tel.: + 34 958 85 85 82
Fax: + 34 958 85 89 03
E-mail: info@interjamon.com
Web: www.interjamon.com (in Spanish, English and French)


Prepared by: ICEX- MADRID